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Chateau de Fargues Sauternes 1997The 1997 Fargues is lighter and more delicate in spirit than the 1998, reflecting the more troublesome weather of the season that birthed it. Built more on minerality and spice than on luscious fruit, it is meditative and subtle rather than showstopping, but it still possesses a lurking power and a formidable sense of concentration. 115 g L residual sugar. While Chteau dYquem was sold to LVMH in the late 1990s, Chteau de Fargues remains under the

From southeast and northwest-facing vines in the Barracone and San Fereolo vineyards in the Valdibà subsection of Dogliani

with vines between 45 and 95 years of age

The vines are in two separate sites

the “Ca’Mia” experiences a cuvaison of at least 3 weeks before being racked into large French “botti” for two years or more of aging

a profound sense of terroir shines through: a well-structured

which yield a wine of remarkably fresh yet deeply penetrating minerality and gorgeously vivid blue and black fruits

From a vintage whose wines have always tended to be forward and generous

aquavit and schnapps as well

and foregrounded

and the wine—with only 15 milligrams per liter of added sulfur—bristles with energy

maritime character that speaks of its Bordeaux terroir

The wine is then aged in stainless steel for four years or more and then an extra in bottle